Up, up and away in Greene County

Greene County is aptly named.

From the gently rolling hills at its southern boundaries, which rise to become the northern Catskill range, to the rich Hudson River Valley on the east, as well as the Helderberg escarpment that overlooks the Mohawk Valley and city of Albany in the north, this pastoral county is filled with breathtaking natural wonders.

The land, first inhabited by Europeans in the 16th and 17th centuries, was quickly recognized as prime farm and dairy land to settlers. The mountains were excellent sources for logging and trapping, as well.

Rest a while

One morning, my husband Pete and I decided to spend the day touring the Catskills and then driving south through Tannersville and back home via the village of Catskill and Route 9W north.

On the way to Greene County, we passed through the sleepy towns of Feura Bush, Coeymans and the Onesquethaw section of Bethlehem Township in southern Albany County.

Once those villages were left behind, the promise of Greene County's emerald pastures, rich farmlands and mountain splendor slowly opened up before us like a blossoming flower.

Pastoral setting

Within a matter of ten minutes, the farms we passed by slowly gave way to rolling hills and wide open fields filled with thickening stands of evergreen trees. We turned off the air conditioner, rolled down the windows and let the fresh, country breeze fill our car.

Going Greene

The mountains are impressive here. Three peaks are clearly visible, one flattened on top and looking like a large shelf or table. Another peak is partially hidden by white fluffy clouds. The third seems rounded off at the top.

Checking our roadmap for their names, we thought they must be part of the Black Head section of mountains. One is appropriately named Flat Top.

Made in the shade

There are several buildings very close to the road, and one looks like a hotel. Painted a colonial yellow with deep green trim, this resort reminds me of what I have read about the Catskill resorts. I imagine people have been coming to Balsam Shade for many years. I recall that these resorts were the "summer place to be" in the Victorian era and early 1900s.

Back then, it was fashionable for entire families from New York City to travel upstate by train, boat or buggy to visit the Catskills. They spent weeks or even entire summers playing shuffleboard, hiking nature trails, boating, swimming and enjoying the clean mountain air.

Hot time

Other events include carnival rides, a petting zoo, "Circus With a Purpose," balloon flights, live entertainment, arts and crafts, demonstrations, air shows, a farmers' market, face painting, a magician, and even an Elvis impersonator.

Nearly 200

Although most of the resorts are closed now, having given way to hotels, motels and B&Bs, a few remain as indicators of the golden age of vacationing in the Catskills. Their owners have found innovative ways to meet the changing needs of today's vacationers.

For example, Balsam Shade sponsors several large events in the summer that draw hundreds of people, including "Grass Drags" (snowmobiles drag-racing on a grass strip), a climbing tower and high ropes course, and the balloon festival.

According to M.A. Davin, administrator of the Chamber of Commerce, "a lot of new businesses are coming into town." But Greenville has "managed to maintain its rural charm."

And it is a charming community. It has a brand new middle school, a recently expanded library and community center, and a 156-acre town park that offers hiking trails, bird watching, a picnic area and athletic fields.

Moving on

Leaving town, we continued south along Route 32, passing well-maintained homes that appear to have been built in the early 1800s, most following the Federal style of architecture.

We eventually came to a long, straight section of road. Suddenly confronted with an even more impressive view of the mountains, we pulled off to take a picture.

Five minutes later, we were at the intersection of Routes 32 and 23. We turned right and headed west, up into the mountains and Hunter Mountain, the highest peak in the entire range.

Bit of Ireland

Every summer, just before Memorial Day weekend, the town fathers (or perhaps leprechauns) paint green shamrocks on the roads of the village to herald the town's summer activities, including the annual Irish Festival. Irish bands and folk singers flock to the area to perform for crowds in the thousands.

A replica of an Irish village is being constructed, with each miniature house representing one of the counties of Ireland. It will be located near the Michael J. Quill Irish Cultural and Sports Centre on Route 145.

Our Lady of Knock Shrine is almost right across the road. It is a national shrine dedicated to the apparition of Our Lady in County Mayo, Ireland. The Irish American Museum, located right next to the Quill Centre, has exhibits and educational programs on the history and culture of the Irish in America. (It is open from Memorial Day through Labor Day and on Columbus Day weekend.)

Going up?

This is known as the "Five State View," where, on a clear day, you can see forever. Here also are cliff-side gardens and an arbor that includes culinary herbs (used in the restaurant for food preparation), perennials, bulbs, annuals and shrubbery woven into the natural flora of the mountain top.

Ten minutes later, we arrived in Windham, a throwback to the golden days of vacationing in the Catskills. Several large Victorian hotels dot the roadway, while Ski Windham's chairlift and trails can be seen in the distance. Windham Peak, right in front of us, enhances the beauty of this area.

Windham shopping

What we find is a day-tripper's dream. The main street is filled with antique stores, quaint churches, boutiques and pastel-painted Victorian homes. With the mountain rising up right behind the village, the scene is like a Currier & Ives lithograph.

We stopped at an Italian specialty store called Todaro's, owned and operated by a Mario Todaro, a parishioner of St. Theresa's in Windham. Bright blue and white porcelain mixing bowls, Italian coffee pots, and hanging sausages in the front window beckoned to us. As soon as we entered, we were greeted by the homey smell of simmering spaghetti sauce. We browsed among the cheeses and homemade breads, and ended up purchasing sandwiches, canolis and bottled, flavored water to take with us.

The mixed fragrances of fresh garlic, onions and different cheeses, blending with the smell of home-made bread, reminded my husband, who is half-Italian, of his grandmother's house when he was a little boy.

Hunting for Hunter

At the intersection of Route 23A, we made another turn and came to the town of Hunter. The ski area is right in the middle of the village. With Hunter Mountain overshadowing the entire area, you could never miss the ski resort. The trails and chairlift are clearly visible from the road. Their steep ascent is breathtaking.

Hunter Mountain has long attracted thousands from all over the world to ski its magnificent trails from peaks that are the highest in the Catskills. There is also a ski museum and Hummel display.

In the summer, Hunter hosts various ethnic festivals to celebrate the melting pot of America. On August 11-12, for example, the annual German Alps festival will provide polka music, German food and plenty of beer. On August 18-19, there will be a Celtic festival.

Legends of Catskills

The rock formation was given the unusual name because it resembles a gigantic tombstone. In colonial times, this section of the northern Catskills was thought to be inhabited by the devil himself.

Legends dominate the Catskills. To the Indians, the mountains were known as the Great Wall of Manitou. The mountains seemed forbidding to the Dutch and German settlers, who were reminded of the forests of Europe, themselves filled with superstition and stories of witches, wizards and devils. As a result, few came as far as Hunter Mountain during the early colonial years.

Names such as Devil's Kitchen, Devil's Chamber, Devil's Path, Devil's Pulpit and Devil's Tombstone all indicate the fear these early settlers must have felt when eventually they discovered the deep recesses of these northern mountains. It wasn't until the late 1800s that explorers, authors and nature lovers began to seriously appreciate the ancient beauty of the Catskills.

Tannersville

We drove past the Mountain Top Arboretum on Route 23C that houses a living collection of native trees and shrubs. The arboretum sits on seven acres and is available for self-guided or guided tours. It is open year round.

Just before we leave the town, we see a sign for North/South Lake, a state-run campground that is a year-round recreational area. There are two lakes here, and the area includes hiking trails, swimming, row boating, fishing, horseback riding, cross-country skiing and snowmobiling.

Nature's beauty

This is the highest cascading waterfall in New York State. There is a pull-off for cars just before this bend where you can view the wide expanse of the Hudson River Valley.

We traveled on through Palenville to the village of Catskill, the county seat. It is located at the mouth of the Catskill Creek (a tributary of the Kaaterskill Creek), where it empties into the Hudson River. There is much to see in Catskill and the village of Athens, which lies a few miles north on Route 9W.

Places to stop

Two miles north of Catskill on Route 385, the Cohotate Nature Preserve is a bird and fish sanctuary that is free and open to the public year-round.

The Athens lighthouse, built in 1874, sits in the Hudson River and is an architectural gem. Tours are held June through October. It is currently being restored by the Hudson-Athens Lighthouse Preservation Society with plans to open it as a river museum in the future.

As we left Athens and Catskill behind, we continued north on Route 9W, which used to be the main thoroughfare through the county. Remnants of stores and long-forgotten tourist attractions dot the roadside.

Roars and growls

The Game Farm has expanded to include an African section of animals, a bird sanctuary, animal nursery, equine section, children's playground, splash pad, amusement rides, and animal contact areas with large petting and feeding grounds. (The Farm is open from May 1 through Oct. 31. There is an entry fee.)

About eight miles north of Catskill, in the town of Coxsackie, we discover Four-Mile Point Preserve. This is a 7.8-acre riverfront preserve that offers picturesque shoreline, dramatic vistas and a tranquil pond. (It is open year-round and admission is free. Maps are available for the nature-lover.)

Going inland

Stopping to buy ice cream cones, Pete and I discover they have everything from Native American beaded necklaces to Greene County mementos: jewelry, baseballs, towels, stationery, scented soaps, licorice and assorted candies.

Outside, the garden center offers fresh tomatoes and lettuce, potted plants, and garden decorations.

As we headed north, we passed Coxsackie, New Baltimore and Ravena. All these Hudson River towns have beautiful parks right on the river. Most have boating and picnic facilities, and a few have boardwalks where one can just sit and enjoy the river.

As we approached the Albany County line, the sun was sinking low on the horizon. We were both tired but glad that we decided to tour neighboring Greene County. There are many places we want to return to and others that we have yet to visit. We both agree that we will do so, soon.

Greene County is, after all, right at our doorstep.

(For further information on Greene County activities, entertainment, lodging, restaurants and family attractions, go to www.greene-ny.com or www.greenville-ny.com.)

(08-09-01) [[In-content Ad]]