April 6, 2018 at 1:53 p.m.
Open road twists through county
Two decades later, Kilean Van Rensselaer established the feudal manor of Rensselaerwyck along the same 24-mile section of land. Situated across from where Fort Orange (the future Albany) would be established, the area comprised what is now Schodack, Nassau, North and East Greenbush, Sand Lake, Grafton, Brunswick, Petersburgh, Berlin, Stephentown, Rensselaer, and Troy.
This rich, hilly farmland was quickly settled by Dutch and French farmers and traders. In the 18th century, it would become one of the central staging areas of the Revolutionary War.
Twists and turns
Driving through Rensselaer County can be inspiring and, at the same time, frustrating, particularly to drivers unfamiliar with its twisting, winding roads. If you don't have a map when you begin an excursion, you can easily get lost.From the north end of the county, where its border meets the state line of Vermont, to its southern edge at Schodack Landing and the Hudson River, the area holds a fascinating history -- if the visitor knows where to look.
In planning a day's tour through the county I grew up in, I knew it would be impossible to include every attraction; there is much to do and see. My husband Peter and I began at Crailo State Historic Site, a colonial farmhouse located on Riverside Avenue in Rensselaer.
Schoolchildren sometimes refer to the place as Fort Crailo, but I learned that it never was one. Crailo was actually built by the Van Rensselaer family, the original patroons. During its early life, it served as a farmhouse for the gentry. Angela, one of the tour guides at the site, told me the Dutch pronunciation is "Cray-loo," which translates to "crows' wood."
"The house was probably built sometime during the early 1700s by Hendrick Van Rensselaer, grandson of the first patroon," she informed me as we began a tour.
To-doodle
One "fact" about the property remains unproven; it's the one for which Crailo is most renowned: that it's the place where "Yankee Doodle Dandy" was written."Sometime around 1758, a British Army surgeon named Dr. Richard Shuckburgh attended a dinner party here at Crailo," Angela reported. "It is said that he was sitting on the well in the backyard when he composed the words to 'Yankee Doodle Dandy.'"
It is thought that he intended the song to be a joke, poking fun at the colonists, but it apparently was taken seriously and "Yankee Doodle Dandy" became a song of colonial independence from Britain.
Gun ports
Another interesting feature of Crailo is that there are gun ports built into the original structure, on the front wall flanking the entryway."The house was built at a time when the Dutch and English settlers did not have good relations with the French in this area," the guide noted. "But we think the gun ports probably served to protect the building and adjacent farmlands from wayfarers and possible thievery."
Crailo now houses a museum that tells the story of the early Dutch inhabitants of the upper Hudson Valley. It also sponsors special programs for student groups. There is a small park across the street that provides an unimpeded view of the Hudson River and across to where Fort Orange was originally located.
Bennington Battlefield
At the northeastern end of Rensselaer County, near the Vermont border, is an historic site that marks a little-known but important battle for independence from England. It is a testimony to the valiant efforts of men from three states: Vermont, Massachusetts and New York.The Bennington Battlefield site, located in Hoosick, sits atop a steep hill overlooking the Green Mountains of Vermont.
At the 1777 battle, militiamen repulsed the advance of British General John Burgoyne's forces as they made their way south into New York State from Canada.
On the road
My husband Peter and I next decided to visit sites that may not be too well known. After leaving the Bennington Battlefield site, we drove south on Route 22 and picked up Route 7 west through the Tibbets State Forest. This small section of wooded land is part of a state reforestation effort.We came across Route 87 south (also known as Babcock Lake Road), which provides more unexpectedly beautiful forest lands. Tall pine and balsam firs mingle with maples, ash and other trees that seem to march right up to the roadway. Driving through this area, we saw deer and many large birds.
Several miles down Route 87, we discovered a sign for the Berkshire Bird Sanctuary at Red Pond Road, a facility not on our map. Located in Petersburgh, the 20-acre facility is at the end of the dirt road and protected by a long section of fencing.
The purpose of the facility is to provide a safe haven for more than 1,700 birds from 100 different species, including eagles, falcons, owls, hawks and ospreys.
Peaceful stop
Then it was on to the Grafton Peace Pagoda. We picked up Route 87 west and drove to the intersection of Route 2. Looking left, we saw a brown and yellow road sign about 50 yards away; it marks the turnoff for the Peace Pagoda.Built in 1985 by volunteers from around the world, the Peace Pagoda grew from the dream of a Japanese Buddhist nun named Jun Yasuda. In her lifelong quest for peace, she has crossed the U.S. four times on foot, logging thousands of miles in pilgrimage.
A volunteer told us it took eight years to complete construction of the Peace Pagoda, which sits on land donated by a Native American activist, Hank Hazelton. It was built entirely by volunteers, who donated thousands of hours of labor, funds and material.
Interfaith spirit
Christians, Jews, Muslims, Hindus, Native Americans, Sufis, Buddhists, Spiritualists and even agnostics have visited the Pagoda. People are invited to learn about the worldwide peace movement, sit for a while and meditate or pray for world peace. A Buddhist prayer temple is also on the site.Peter and I discovered numerous prayer altars constructed by previous visitors: rocks stacked one upon the other in various spots along the way. They are silent reminders that others came here before us to pray for peace.
It is a tranquil place that invites meditation and prayer. We spent more than a half-hour walking around the pagoda, where on the upper level, the story of Buddha is told in words and pictures.
Environment
Peter wanted to visit Dyken Pond Environmental Education Center, located just a short drive from the Peace Pagoda. Once we backtracked to Route 2, we drove west and turned left onto Route 85, following it to Dyken Pond Road.Dyken Pond is a conservancy and recreational area that offers year-round nature programs. These include outdoor living skills and youth service programs, such as the Summer Outdoor Learning Adventure program (for children 6-13) and the Rough Riders program (for teens).
Summer activities include six miles of hiking trails, non-motorized boating and kayaking, and fishing. In the winter, the hiking trails are maintained for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. Skating and fishing are also allowed.
Dyken Pond is surrounded by 425 acres of woodland trails, ravines, meadows, bogs and rock outcroppings. It is home to plant and animal habitats that are considered unique to the Capital Region.
Preserved
Another nature preserve in Rensselaer County is the Papscanee Island Nature Preserve, located on 156 acres in the towns of Schodack and East Greenbush, along the Hudson River. It is owned by the Open Space Institute and managed by the Rensselaer County Environmental Management Council.Originally a Mohican Indian settlement, the preserve provides a variety of recreational activities, including fishing, hiking, boating, picnicking and cross-country skiing, all at no cost.
The preserve can be accessed from Staats Island Road in Schodack to the south and from the city of Rensselaer in the north.
City life
The City of Troy, the county seat, was settled by Dutch traders shortly after Hudson sailed up the river. Trading their wares with Native Americans in the area, the Dutch East India Company gave large tracts of land to wealthy patroons.The part that was Rensselaerwyck was occasionally portioned off and sold, and the area that is now Troy was purchased by the VanderHeyden family.
Places to go
Included among the many historic and scenic sites worth visiting in and near Troy are:* The Olde Judge Mansion Bed & Breakfast (home of Uncle Sam) at 3300 Sixth Avenue; call 274-5698.
* Knickerbocker Mansion in Schaghticoke, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It's an example of colonial Dutch architecture.
* Oakwood Cemetery on Route 40 in north Troy, the third largest cemetery in the U.S. It is the burial location of "Uncle Sam" Wilson and Emma Willard, as well as other significant historical figures, including several Civil War generals.
* Hudson-Mohawk Historical Gateway, Polk Street, the birthplace of Andrew Meneely, who established Meneely Bell Foundry in 1802, which produced more than 100,000 bells during the early days of the U.S.
* Rensselaer County Historical Society & Museum at the Hart-Cluett Mansion at 59 Second Street; call 272-7232.
* Rensselaer Railroad Heritage Exhibit at Davison Hall on the RPI Campus on Burdett Avenue; call 276-2971
Ending our trip
BY the end of the afternoon, Pete and I had traveled from the south end of the expansive county to its northeastern edge. We had driven beautiful, winding roads that took us to some interesting but little-known tourist spots.As we began our short trip home to Guilderland, we both agreed that our enjoyable drive through Rensselaer County was one that we will add to our cherished memories of pleasant day-trips.
And, we will definitely be back for more!
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