History flows throughout Fulton, Montgomery counties

And when some people think of Fulton County, they often picture the historic towns of Gloversville and Johnstown, and many have ventured at least once to the Great Sacandaga Lake in the foothills of the Adirondack Mountains.

But the two counties are much more than those cities and places, as my wife Judy and I found out when we recently visited.

Brick town

From the late 19th century through the first few decades of the 20th, Amsterdam, like so many other small towns in upstate New York, was a boomtown. Transportation by rail and by water was excellent, and arriving immigrants provided a steady supply of cheap labor. (One such immigrant was the family of actor Kirk Douglas, who grew up in Amsterdam during the 1920s and '30s.)

Family-owned factories employed thousands of people at a wage high enough for them to buy a home of their own and raise their families, and the entrepreneurs who ran them became fabulously wealthy. Evidence of that prosperity can still be found when driving through the town: The current city hall was once owned by carpet magnate John Sanford.

Hometown

"It was sort of an 'Andy of Mayberry' place," she said. "I remember walking downtown with my parents and everybody knew each other. All the shop owners were friendly, and most of them had these pneumatic tubes that would take your receipt and fly it upstairs to the business office. I loved watching that."

She also remembers a city filled with many different ethnic areas. "We didn't mingle very much," she said, "but I remember seeing Polish street signs. As a kid, we'd play in these huge fields that were between my home and my school. In the winter they'd dump all the snow into big piles, and we'd have the best time building forts and playing in the snow. It felt like a safe place to be a kid."

Revival

The park, which offers breathtaking views of the Mohawk River, consists of a plaza area with an open-air stage, a children's playground, a roller/hockey rink, gardens and 300 feet of boat docking. The city has scheduled many musical and dance activities throughout the summer (for information about what is taking place, call City Hall at 841-5190).

Significant figure

Guy Johnson served his uncle well and eventually became the second wealthiest man in Mohawk Valley, but his luck changed when he sided with the British at the outset of the Revolutionary War. This brought immediate local reaction and many threats to imprison him. In 1775, he gathered his allies, family and fellow Loyalists and abandoned his estate. He fled to Canada and eventually settled in London after the war.

His home today is a quiet, romantic place that sits alongside Lock 11. We spent some enjoyable moments watching the boats drift up and down the river, feeling far away from the city of Amsterdam, which was nestled only a few miles away.

Fort-itude

His mansion was built in 1749 along the banks of the Kayaderosseras Creek. It was, according to Johnson, "a good strong dwelling by my mills, all of stone."

The home, which contains period furnishings, Native American artifacts, and military and needlework collections, is open to the public from Wednesday through Sunday, 1-5 p.m. When you go there, take a look at the majestic garden in the back, the two enormous trees in the front, and the 18th-century outhouse. (For information, call 843-0300.)

Canal memories

Judy and I really enjoyed our visit here. We were able to get out of the car and walk with our dog Wyatt a few miles along remnants of the Erie Canal, one of the greatest commercial and engineering projects of the 19th century. Our walk was quiet and beautiful, with many purple phlox growing up from the remains of the canal. An exhibition at the Visitor's Center traces the history of the Erie Canal and its impact on the growth of New York State and the entire nation.

Within the boundaries of the site are many structures which date from the canal era, such as the East Guard Lock and Lock Number 20 from the 1820s' Erie Canal, plus about one-half mile of the original "Clinton's Ditch."

The largest structure at Schoharie Crossing is the remains of the Schoharie Aqueduct, which carried water of the enlarged Erie Canal over (and separate from) the water of the Schoharie Creek. It was over 600 feet long when it was completed in 1842, and seven of the 14 original arches are still standing today.

We decided we wanted to come back soon to explore the waterway in our kayak, and we also want to come back in the winter and ski the numerous trails.

Shrine next

Located only a few miles west from Schoharie Crossing on Route 5S, the Shrine is the official site of the North American Martyrs and was once the palisaded Mohawk Indian village of Ossernenon. It was here that Father Jogues, a French Jesuit missionary, and Rene Goupil were brought in August 1642 after their capture by the Mohawks. On Sept. 29, Goupil was killed, and Father Jogues buried him in a ravine outside the village.

After a year in captivity, Father Jogues escaped from the Indians; but years later, he returned and was martyred on Oct. 18, 1646. Kateri Tekakwitha, who was proclaimed Blessed by Pope John Paul II in 1980, was born in the same village in 1656.

Ravine meditation

After visiting the Rustic Chapel of the Martyrs and the original chapel, we wandered down into the ravine where Father Jogues buried his good friend St. Rene.

We were all alone in the ravine, which created a sort of creepy feeling, knowing what had gone on here years ago. We stopped at the many signs and read in Father Jogues' own words what he had done after his friend Rene had been killed. At the bottom of the ravine is a statue of St. Rene making the sign of the cross over an Indian boy, which was the act he had committed that brought about his murder.

Judy and I enjoyed the solitude of this holy place, and we strongly recommend a visit to Auriesville. It not only fills your spirit, but also gives you a glimpse into the past. As we left, we were quiet and contemplative. "It's amazing how much faith these men had," said my wife.

Kateri's shrine

Kateri was born of an Algonquin mother and a Mohawk chief in 1656 in the Mohawk village of Ossernenon, believed to be located in the present-day Auriesville. After the village was destroyed by French settlers and Canadian Indians, the surviving Mohawks built a fortified village on the south side of the river. The fully excavated village of Caughnawaga is located at the shrine, and it was at this village that she lived most of her life.

She was called "The Lily of the Mohawks" because of her good works and her purity, and she was declared Venerable by the Church in 1943. In 1980, she was beautified by Pope John Paul II.

Prayerful spot

Walking through the ground floor, we were amazed to see such an extensive collection of Native American artifacts. Many of them were found at the excavated village. There were also nice models of Mohawk villages and well written information about daily life in a Mohawk village.

We next moved upstairs to the St. Peter's Chapel. It was a quiet, perfect place to reflect and pray, and we walked around looking at how it was renovated in a Mohawk Indian style with wooden beams and Native American art and tapestries.

Woodland path

We sat for a while and enjoyed the solitude at the Tekakwitha spring located a short path down from the village. This was a place where Kateri often came to get water and where she may have been baptized.

On the walk back through the woods to our car, I said to Judy, "You can't go to Auriesville and not visit the Kateri Shrine the same day." My wife nodded her head in agreement.

More to come

During the American Revolution, battles at Fort Stanwix and Oriskany at the western end of the valley, along with the Battle of Saratoga, blocked the British plan to split the colonies in half by marching armies through the Mohawk and Hudson valleys.

During the 1820s, as we had already learned, the Erie Canal was the main road west, sort of like a superhighway today. With so much history only a few miles apart, it was amazing not to encounter much traffic and to find such rural and unspoiled land.

Kids' food

"It's a quiet town," he said, "where people generally know each other and help their neighbors in need. The people are very aware of the history of the town and want to preserve their past."

Father Gaffigan praised Arkell Hall, a foundation located in the original home of the Arkell family. The Arkell family members were instrumental in the formation of many of Canajoharie's institutions, including Canajoharie Library and Art Gallery.

"The Arkell Hall Foundation does a lot for the community," said Father Gaffigan. "They've helped with the preservation of the library, supplies for the fire department -- and they'll also help families in need."

Stops to go to

"One definite thing to see is our library and art gallery right in the center of town," said Father Gaffigan. "There are many famous artists there, such as Winslow Homer."

The Library and Art Gallery is a modern facility open Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday, 10 a.m.-4:45 p.m. On Thursdays, it's open from noon-8:30 p.m., on Saturdays from 10 a.m.-1:30 p.m., and on Sundays during the summer from 1 to 3:45 p.m. It's located at 2 Erie Boulevard on the corner of Church Street, across form the Beech-Nut Corporation.

Time for art

We saw numerous paintings by Winslow Homer and works by George Inness, Grandma Moses, Frederick Remington and John Singer Sargent. My favorite was Childe Hassaam's oil painting titled "Provincetown."

Since Judy and I were the only people wandering around, we were able to take our time and talk quietly as we looked at the paintings. It was much more pleasant than being at some of the larger city galleries where you're sometimes forced to stand two or three rows behind the works of art.

How lucky the people of Canajoharie are to have such a wonderful gallery in their library -- and to think you can gaze at such fine art for no cost. We both felt this was one of our favorite parts of the day, and we'd strongly recommend our friends to pay it a visit.

Lovely route

We passed some beautiful homes along Route 5. Many of them were built centuries earlier by Palatine Germans. The Palatine Church, located on Route 5 between the towns of Nelliston and St. Johnsville, is a beautiful stone colonial edifice. Built in 1770, its interior is graced by a 13-star colonial flag. (If you are interested in a visit, make an appointment by calling 993-3539.)

Judy and I stopped for a while and walked around Fort Klock, which was a fur-trading post built in 1750. Today, it's a National Historic Landmark, and part of a 30-acre complex of original farm structures with a 19th-century schoolhouse, a blacksmith shop and a Dutch barn.

In the 18th century, many fur-trading posts were scattered throughout the Mohawk Valley. They were often places of refuge used by settlers during the French and Indian War, and later, the Revolutionary War. Fort Klock is open from Tuesday through Saturday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. (There is an admission fee; call 568-7779).

Peaceful road

Our destination was the town of Palatine Bridge, where we would turn north on Route 10 and then drive into Fulton County. Route 10 was a beautiful road with great views to our left and right.

The road takes you up a ridge; and with each mile, it felt like we were going farther and farther into the past. We came upon the hamlet of Stone Arabia, for example, where two 18th-century churches stand side-by-side. The Dutch Reformed Church, a stone structure, was erected in 1788, and Trinity Lutheran Church, constructed of wood, was built in 1792. An 18th-century burial ground lies a short distance from the churches and gives the feeling of an old rural Vermont location from a century ago.

As we continued down Route 10, we noticed that many of the farms had no electrical wires attached to their houses. "Amish," I said to Judy. I had read that since the 1980s, there had been a strong influx of the Amish in this area, but I was unaware there were so many.

Amish

We though about taking a picture but knew they hated having their photo taken, so we just watched quietly from our car for a few minutes and then drove on.

We eventually stopped at an Amish farm that had a wooden sign out front reading "Homebaked Cookies and Pies." It came at the right time since Judy and I were about to drop from hunger. The house was impeccably clean, and the Amish woman who waited on us was friendly and spoke with a German-sounding accent. We bought bread, still warm from the oven, molasses cookies that melted in our mouths, and a strawberry rhubarb pie. "The kids will like this," said Judy, who was holding the pie.

"They will if we don't eat it all," I joked.

Fulton County

Fulton County was one of the first vacation spots for upstate New Yorkers. At one time, there was an amusement park on Sacandaga Lake that rivaled Coney Island in Brooklyn. People from New York City would take the train north to visit it. Driving through Fulton County today, you can see why it was so popular years ago -- and why so many people still have camps there today.

The county has many beautiful remote lakes in the northwestern section, up near Stratford and Caroga. It also has many old camps from the 1930s and '40s, and many families have maintained their camps for 50 or more years.

The county is the beginning of the foothills of the Adirondacks, which means that many people hike, swim, fish and, in the winter, cross-country ski and snowmobile. It is a vacationers' paradise.

Johnstown

And then we found ourselves at another site connected with Sir William Johnson: Johnstown Hall, his 1763 Georgian home. We didn't have time to visit this National Historical Site, but the building and the grounds are majestic. (If you are interested in taking a tour, call 762-8712).

Other interesting places to see in Johnstown include the Fulton County Courthouse, built in 1772, and the site of the Revolutionary War Battle of Johnstown, which took place in October 1781. There is a plaque on your way out of town that explains where the battle occurred.

Looking for eats

To get there, we needed to drive north on Route 30A, which took us around the bustling city of Gloversville. I've spent quite a bit of time in Gloversville, attending high school track and cross-country meets, and I've always found the town friendly and clean. The architecture of the buildings in the downtown section is always nice to look at, and the hills surrounding the town make you feel like you're in a movie.

As we drove away from town, there were fewer stores and more trees, and very soon we were back to the peaceful drive that we had encountered before Johnstown.

Enjoyable memories

"Just about every day, we swam in the Sacandaga," she said, "and we always had to drive somewhere to get anything."

Like many people in Fulton County, she lived out in the country.

"We had three neighbors," she said, "and I remember that whenever there was a problem like a big snowfall or a power outage, those neighbors would come over and help us out."

She always enjoyed visiting the Fulton County Historical Museum in Gloversville. "They gave a nice history of Fulton County," she said, "and they had one big exhibit on the building of the Great Sacandaga Lake and how it flooded out all these different towns along the way."

The Fulton County Museum, located at 237 Kingsboro Avenue in Gloversvillle, has exhibits not only on the lake but also on the Colonial Era, the history of the local Native Americans, and the glove- and leather-making industries. For more information, phone 725-2203.

Relaxing

Judy and I sat out back on the patio with a beautiful view of the Great Sacandaga Lake and the Adirondack Mountains in the background. It was so nice to finally sit and relax after so much driving and exploring.

It had been a very enjoyable day, and I had learned a lot about our country's history, but I couldn't help thinking about two things in particular, the great courage and faith of the North American Martyrs, and the simple yet peaceful lifestyle of the Amish. Here we were, surrounded by the warm sun and the blue clear lake, listening to the hum of distant motorboats, and yet Judy and I still thought about the missionaries of the past and those simple, hardworking Amish of today.

How fortunate we are to live so close to such wonderful history. It also occurred to me that we had learned more than just history and facts on this trip; we had again been reminded how to live our own lives more fully.

(07-19-01) [[In-content Ad]]