April 6, 2018 at 1:53 p.m.
TRADITION

Father is a Cookie Monster when Italian treats roll out


By PAT PASTERNAK- | Comments: 0 | Leave a comment

What is sweet, round and delicious, filled with sweet figs or dates, and sprinkled with confectioner's sugar or honey?

Hint: They make their appearance usually only once a year and don't hang around very long. Sometimes, they resemble smiley faces.

Called "cuccidoti," which means "cookie dots" in Italian, they are a staple dessert in Italian and Sicilian households around the holidays. In Frankfort, a retired priest is known as "the official cuccidot taster."

Cookie-tester

According to his own admission, Rev. Alfred Lamanna is quite familiar with the little Italian wonders and even considers himself somewhat of an authority on the sweets, having been called upon by local Italian parishioners to taste-test them for the past 50 years.

He even traveled halfway around the world to get the exact recipe.

"Cuccidoti are famous Sicilian and Italian holiday cookies," said Father Lamanna, pastor emeritus of the former St. Mary of Mt. Carmel Church in Frankfort, which is now part of Our Lady Queen of Apostles parish. "I love them!"

Although he has never baked a cuccidot, the 81-year-old priest knows quite a lot about them and proves it by saying: "They are made with either a fig or date filling and sometimes nuts, usually walnuts, not almonds. Almonds would go into a sweeter, lighter cookie."

Delivery man

One of Father Lamanna's early assignments, 1952-'58, was to the same parish. Each year, when the women of the parish baked cuccidoti, he would help deliver them by driving around the countryside.

"Of course, I made a sort of bargain with the women," he said. "I told them that before I could deliver the cookies, I would have to taste them to see if they were good.

"These just weren't any cookies; these were cuccidoti, made from cherished recipes handed down in the 'old country' for generations. These were special, and very delicious holiday cookies, made by loving mothers and grandmothers for their family members."

Cookie van

Father Lamanna would deliver large pans of cuccidoti to those who had little for the holidays.

"In those days, families helped each other out," he explained. "If one family needed food and clothing because the husband was out of work, or they were newly arrived from southern Italy or Sicily, all the other families pitched in. It was the way they survived."

After a few years, the women were calling on him to not only deliver the cuccidoti but also to be their official taster. "Of course," he said with a laugh, "I was more than happy to accommodate them. I became known around the parish as 'Padre Cuccidoti.'"

In retirement, he continues to deliver the cookies during the annual bake sale.

Recipe from Italy

In 1958, Father Lamanna was assigned away from the Frankfort area. He returned in 1969 as pastor of St. Mary's and remained for 25 years -- until his retirement in 1994.

"I had occasion to travel to Rome," he recalled. "I decided to make a special trip to Calabria and the areas where my parents were from."

He also visited villages where some of his parishioners had lived before coming to the U.S. and hit "pay dirt," regarding the cuccidoti. "While visiting a little parish known as San Giusseppe Jato, outside of Palermo, Sicily, I actually was able to obtain an original recipe for cuccidoti," he revealed.

He brought it home to grateful bakers who were the daughters and granddaughters of those original immigrants.

Still on the road

In retirement, Father Lamanna still delivers the cookies during the parish's annual bake sale.

"All I have to do is walk into the church and smell those cuccidoti baking," he said. "The aroma fills the whole church with a wonderful, homey smell. It never fails to make me hungry."

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